In Austria, there's a rich array of 40 grape varieties - 26 white and 14 red. Vienna boasts approximately 700 hectares of vineyards and 145 wineries, making it a hub for wine enthusiasts (read more here). |
Viennese Wine Hiking Days
I went to explore Vienna's unique vineyards during the annual Viennese Wine Hiking Days. I stayed at an apartment in the heart of the Old Town.
Familiar with Vienna's charms from previous visits, my itinerary was set: breakfasts at Cafe Central, Demel and Sacher, sampling wines and delicacies during Wiener Weinwandertag, checking out the famed Spanish Riding School horses, a shopping spree at Gerry Weber's flagship store, and purchases of Grüner Veltliner wines, Mozartkugelns, and Manner wafers. The Weather Goddess thankfully granted a rain-free weekend.
Café Central Frühstück 22,00€ |
During the Weinwandertag, the route spanned from Neustift to Sievering, encompassing iconic wine-growing regions like the Vienna Cobenzl estate, Grinzing, and Nussdorf. The trail wove through charming wine taverns (Heurigen) and offered breathtaking views of Vienna and the Danube. In my programme was also to check out Zum Schwarzen Kameel and taste their delicious veal goulash.
Having trekked over 15 kilometers on the previous day, my next day's choice was the Vienna Heurigen Express directly to Mayer am Nussberg, a newfound favorite Heurigen. I tasted local delights like Kürbissuppe, Schwein am Spieß gebraten, Wienerschnitzel, and Kartoffelsalat.
Spit-roasted pork, Mayer am Nussberg. |
The taverns offered not just food and wine, but also sturm, a fresh grape juice in an early state of fermentation, and gespritzter, a mix of dry white wine and sparkling water. Yet, the quality of the wine used in the latter was not impressive.
Grüner Veltliner, a favorite Austrian wine, proved affordable and versatile, pairing seamlessly with an array of dishes. While priced at 20 euros during Wine Hiking Days, I found the same bottle for under 10 euros in local supermarket.
Two GV bottles for 8.99€. What a bargain! |
The history of Viennese wine culture spans over three millennia, a testament to its enduring legacy. Anticipation brews for the next Vienna Wine Hiking Day in autumn 2023, while a video from the Demel Cafe breakfast offers a glimpse into Viennese cafe house culture.