Wiener Weinwandertag ran from 24 to 25 September 2022

In Austria, there are 40 grape varieties – 26 white and 14 red, and in Vienna there are about 700 hectares of vineyards and 145 wineries (read more here).

My Finnish friend Anne, a former Vienna expat, invited me and our mutual Londoner friend Paula to explore Vienna's unique vineyards during the annual Viennese Wine Hiking Days. Anne booked us a 130 m2 apartment from the heart of the Old Town. 

As Paula and I had been to Vienna a few times, we knew exactly what we wanted do to. Our plan was to a) eat breakfasts at Cafe Central, Demel and Sacher, b) sample wines and foods in the sun during Wiener Weinwandertag, c) see the Spanish Riding School horses, d) take a horse carriage ride to see the historical centre, e) shop at Gerry Weber's flagship store, and f) buy Grüner Veltliner wines, Mozartkugelns and Manner wafers. We managed to do that, and more... thanks to Anne and her impeccable navigation skills.  We were also blessed by the Weather Goddess as it did not rain at all during the long weekend. 

Café Central Frühstück 22,00€ 

On our first Weinwandertag on Saturday the 24th, Anne led us to the route that started off in Neustift and continued to Sievering, the Vienna Cobenzl wine estate, Grinzing and ended up in Nussdorf; all legendary wine-growing areas. During the trail we experienced the wine taverns (Heurigen) and enjoyed the breath-taking views of Vienna and the Danube. Later in the evening, we went to the Zum Schwarzen Kameel, and ordered veal goulash (Kalbsrahmgulasch), which was really nice.

As during the previous day we had walked over 15 kilometres (!!), on Sunday we decided to take the Vienna Heurigen Express directly to the Mayer am Nussberg, which is now our favourite Heurigen. After downing two bottles of wine, we went to Währing, on the edge of Vienna woods, to have an authentic Wienerschnitzel dinner at Anne's friend's home.

Kürbissuppe, Wienerschnitzel & Kartoffelsalat


Spit-roasted pork, Mayer am Nussberg.

In addition to food and wine, the taverns sold sturm and gespritzter. Sturm is fresh grape juice that is at an early state of fermentation. It tasted like lemony wine juice. Gespritzter is half dry white wine and half sparkling water (4.5 % vol). They use pretty crap wine for that.    

My favourite Austrian wine is made of Grüner Veltliner grapes. It is affordable and pairs well with cheese, veggies, cold meat starters, chicken, seafood and fish. The going rate for a GV bottle during Wine Hiking Days was 20 euros, but one can buy the same wine brands from a local supermarkets with less than 10 euros.  

Two GV bottles for 8.99€. What a bargain! 

I and Anne visiting a Blauer Zweigelt grape plantation.

The history of Viennese wine traditions stretches back over three millennia, according to an interesting article, which discusses the evolution of vitis vinifera plantations around the City of Vienna. The next Vienna Wine Hiking Day is expected to take place in autumn 2023. Meanwhile, here is a video compilation from the breakfast at the Demel Cafe.